Discovering Buenos Aires: A Walk Through the City of Fury

Hello! I'm Sabrina, a gastronomic and travel journalist. I'm 26 years old, and I was born and have lived my entire life in Buenos Aires, Argentina. I could say a thousand things about my city, like that it is the best city in the world, but... who doesn't say that about the place where they grew up?

I can tell you that this city has given me so many things, and even after having seen some spectacular places in my life, I wouldn't trade it for anything in the world. Have you ever come to see a soccer match in Buenos Aires? Nothing compares—it’s truly one-of-a-kind.

What can I say about the Autonomous City of Buenos Aires (which is not the same as the Province of Buenos Aires)? My city is the most populous in the country, as well as its capital, and many also know it as the Federal Capital. We call it CABA for short—it is divided into 15 communes that encompass a total of 48 neighborhoods, each with its own style, soul, and something special to share.

Those of us who live in Buenos Aires are called “porteños,” a term that comes directly from “port.” In the past, the city’s port (located in the Puerto Madero neighborhood) was the only place where one could disembark to enter the country, which is why we proudly carry this title, even if other provinces might use it in a derogatory way. However, it is true that the term is also used in other countries for inhabitants of port cities.

As in many countries—and though I don’t think it’s entirely right—the capital is often what outsiders find most representative. This means that in the case of Buenos Aires, much of the symbolism surrounding it is exactly what the rest of the world associates with the city. A clear example? Tango! Buenos Aires is the world capital of tango, a musical genre that emerged about two centuries ago as a result of a fusion of the region’s cultures. These influences were mostly from the gauchas (the gaucho being the typical inhabitant of Argentina’s interior), as well as from Spanish and Italian immigrants, and African traditions. Without a doubt, tango is part of our identity, part of the porteño identity.

Every city has its curiosities and interesting facts, and Buenos Aires undoubtedly has many. However, here is a selection of my favorites, so you can better know the city and understand the whirlwind of life we porteños experience every day—the most beautiful in the world, of course.

1. Buenos Aires is the city with the most bookstores per capita in the world. With 25 bookstores for every 100,000 people, it is a paradise for book lovers. Among them stands out El Ateneo Grand Splendid, an architectural gem housed in a former theater, recognized as one of the most beautiful bookstores in the world. Buenos Aires truly is the city with the most bookstores—we are indeed a very literary people.
2. The passion for football is reflected in its number of stadiums. The devotion of porteños to football is undeniable. Buenos Aires is the city with the highest number of football stadiums in the world. Some of the most emblematic include La Bombonera, home to Boca Juniors, and El Monumental, home to River Plate.
3. We have the oldest subway in Latin America. The Buenos Aires underground, inaugurated in 1913, is the oldest in Latin America. The first line connected the Casa Rosada with the Congress, passing through the iconic Avenida de Mayo.
4. The Casa Rosada and its peculiar color. The headquarters of the National Executive Power owes its distinctive pink color to a mixture of lime and bovine blood used in its 19th-century painting. This combination not only gave it its unique hue but also helped protect the walls.
5. The carousels: a classic porteño tradition. The carousels (calesitas) are part of Buenos Aires’ cultural heritage. Currently, 55 carousels remain in public spaces, serving as an unforgettable reminder of the childhoods of generations of Argentines.
6. A Statue of Liberty in the Belgrano neighborhood. In Belgrano’s Plaza Barrancas, there is a replica of the famous Statue of Liberty. This work was created by Frédéric Auguste Bartholdi, the same artist behind the original in New York.
7. The geographic center of the city is in Caballito. Although many consider the Microcentro to be the heart of Buenos Aires, the true geographic center is in the Caballito neighborhood, specifically at Avenida Avellaneda 1023. A plaque at the site marks this fact.
8. Avenida Corrientes: the Broadway of Buenos Aires. Known as "the street that never sleeps," Avenida Corrientes is the theatrical epicenter of Buenos Aires, hosting numerous theaters, bookstores, and cafés that bring the city's cultural scene to life.
9. The Obelisk: built in record time. The iconic Obelisk, an undisputed symbol of Buenos Aires, was built in just 31 days and inaugurated on May 23, 1936, to commemorate the fourth centenary of the city's first foundation.
10. Porteño pizza and its unique identity. Pizza in Buenos Aires has its own characteristics that set it apart from other places. With a spongy base and plenty of cheese, it is common to serve it with a slice of fainá, a type of chickpea flatbread placed on top of the pizza.
    

Is all of this enough to convince anyone to come and live in Buenos Aires? It convinced me. And I want to pause for a moment on something mentioned in point number 8: not only is Corrientes "the street that never sleeps," but the entire city never sleeps. Yes, I know—it's what people say about New York. But let's be honest, and I hope no one gets offended... anyone who has been to New York knows that, even as one of the most magical cities in the universe, around 2 a.m. the streets are nearly empty. The city does sleep, and it sleeps very well. Buenos Aires, however, does not sleep, and that is what makes it magical. At any hour, in any neighborhood, you will always find a bar where you can sit down to drink or eat something, with cars cruising the streets as if time didn’t exist, as if the night were merely an extension of the day. This is one of the true characteristics of the city and a fundamental part of its essence.

And what about its people? Because a city without its people is nothing, and we porteños are truly unique characters. As we say: we are intense, passionate, and we speak very quickly. We love to gesture, we are experts at exaggerating stories and adding drama to everything, but we are also hospitable and friendly. If you come to Buenos Aires, it’s very likely that you’ll end up chatting with a stranger in a café and receiving recommendations for places to visit from someone you’ve just met. Speaking of which, one thing that sets Buenos Aires apart from many other cities is its café culture. No matter the time or the neighborhood, there will always be a café open waiting for you. And I’m not talking about international chains, but about historic, noteworthy cafés—those with a story, worn wooden tables, waiters who know your order by heart, and the sound of clinking cups that is almost like a lullaby. Places like Tortoni, Margot, or La Poesía are much more than bars: they are porteño institutions, true temples of conversation and writing. I could talk another day about specialty cafés, but today, it’s the turn of the classic porteño cafés.

Another thing you might not know: Buenos Aires has the widest avenue in the world. 9 de Julio Avenue, with its 140-meter width, is a challenge for any hurried pedestrian. Crossing it from end to end may require passing several traffic lights, but it is also an incredible postcard, with the Obelisk in the middle and the iconic Evita Perón sign—an Argentine icon—inspiring the night.

More facts, no less important, to truly understand what this city is about: when it comes to transportation, we cannot forget the buses, or "bondis" as we call them here. Buenos Aires has one of the most complex bus systems in the world, with over 180 lines connecting every corner of the city. Hopping on a bus during rush hour is quite an adventure, but it is also the best way to experience the true porteño spirit.

When it comes to art, Buenos Aires is a city of museums. The National Museum of Fine Arts houses one of the most important collections in Latin America, featuring works by Van Gogh, Monet, and Goya. But there are also more curious museums, such as the Ham Museum (dedicated to Spanish cured meats) or the Museum of Boca Passion, which tells the story of Boca Juniors with a passion that only true fans can understand.

But if there's one thing that cannot be left out when talking about Buenos Aires, it's the food. Porteño cuisine reflects the city's history—the Italian and Spanish immigration that shaped its identity, along with the Creole traditions that existed long before. As mentioned, deep-dish pizza with an obscene amount of mozzarella is a classic. The same goes for Neapolitan milanesa, churros with dulce de leche, and, of course, asado. Going to a traditional Argentine grill is a religious experience, where the ritual of the fire, the melting provoleta, and even the offal are part of the heart of our culture. And we cannot talk about food without mentioning dulce de leche. Argentina produces the best dulce de leche in the world (sorry, Uruguay, but it's true) and puts it on absolutely everything—pastries, alfajores, ice cream, cakes... nothing doesn’t get better with dulce de leche. If you come to Buenos Aires, you must try a good dulce de leche ice cream at a traditional ice cream parlor like Rapa Nui, Cadore, or Obrador Florida.

At the end of the day, Buenos Aires is chaos and passion, a blend of history and modernity coexisting on every corner. It is a city that can be exhausting, that challenges you and makes you fall in love at the same time. It is impossible not to experience it intensely, because Buenos Aires is not merely visited—it is experienced. I say this not only because I was born and have lived here all my life, but because anyone who has spent time in the city can attest to it. Buenos Aires is, without a doubt, one of the best cities in the world.

So, are you ready to discover it?

Regards,
Sabrina Palmieri

This article was written by Sabrina Palmieri for Traveossa. All rights reserved.
No copying or publishing on other platforms is permitted without prior written permission.